BAALBEK, CITY OF THE SUN

My two days’ trip to Anjar and Baalbek archaeological sites (both UNESCO World Heritage) was again one of the highlights of my visit to Lebanon this summer.

Accompanied by my daughter, my brother and his family we first drove to Anjar. Anjar is a city in the Bekaa Valley with a historic site that is often overlooked. Unlike other sites in Lebanon, where layers of different civilizations lie on top of each other, Anjar only witnessed the 8^th century historical period of the first Arab dynasty, the Umayyad Caliphate.

Strategically located at the intersection of important trade routes between Syria and Lebanon, the city of Anjar was built around 715 AD and prospered for around half a century. So much time has passed since then. Yet the ruins of Anjar in their silence will catch you in awe. We were practically the only people exploring the site. The awesome architectural structures all around fascinated us.

The best part of our trip was yet to come, namely the lunch break in a famous traditional Lebanese restaurant in Anjar. First-time tourists in Lebanon never fail to report about the astounding supply of excellent food all around the country.

The special construction of the walls is amazing

The blue sky reflecting its colour on the mountains

Details of special wall construction to hold against earthquakes

Palmyra Hotel and some historical facts

Our next destination after an opulent meal at the famous Shams restaurant was the City of Baalbek where we had planned to stay overnight in Palmyra Hotel. Built in 1874 by a Greek entrepreneur to accommodate the growing number of European archaeologists and tourists exploring the region at that time, this hotel is considered one of the oldest hotels in the Middle East.

The main salon between the rooms on first floor

The turbulent local, regional and global events have affected Palmyra’s history in many ways over 145 years, but they couldn’t close its doors for one single day! For history lovers like me, interested in Lebanon’s rich history in the late 19^th Century under the Ottomans, and early 20^th Century under French Colonial rule, this hotel is certainly a gem. The last German Kaiser Wilhelm II stayed at Palmyra in 1898, paving the way for the large excavation of Baalbek ruins.

View from our room at dawn. The six columns of Jupiter under restoration

Nostalgic moments

Writing this now reminds me of a Lebanon tour I organized in 1998 for a group of Germans, long before social media, and exactly one hundred years later! Eight years after the end of the Lebanese Civil War, the hotel was still recovering from that period. We were pleasantly surprised by the well-preserved antique furniture. We didn’t mind water not running properly, or the lack of air conditioning. We loved the atmosphere and the authenticity of the place.
We also enjoyed the few people working there. I still recall the friendly old man, Abu Ali, who served us a decent Lebanese breakfast every day. I got so emotional as I remembered him from my last stay at Palmyra in the early 80s during the Lebanese Civil War while on a 5 days’ field trip with the School of Architecture.

Lebanese entrepreneurship and resilience

Luckily for us, the hotel new owners, Mr and Mrs Ali Husseini, have firmly preserved the genuineness of the original building over the years. So, in 2019, when entering the hall again, we felt as if stepping into a different era. Also, our rooms overlooking the lit Baalbek temple complex at night added more magic to this unique experience. Our stroll in the city before retiring in our beautifully designed rooms was the extra bonus on this memorable short trip.

The catholic church seen from a small alley

Loved this corner shop with hotel on top

Jean Cocteau’s room in Palmyra Hotel. The famous writer and painter stayed at least twice at the hotel. 35 Cocteau paintings are showcased at the hotel.

Baalbek Temple complex

Heliopolis, City of the Sun as named by the Romans is one of the most well-preserved temple complexes in the region. It includes two of the largest and greatest Roman temples ever built outside from Rome: The majestic Jupiter and Bacchus temples. I have visited them many times in my life at different seasons. Whether in hot summers or in early springs when the nearby mountains are still covered with snow, the colossal structures of Baalbek stand tall amid breathtaking landscape defying time and history.

Small we are next to the temple of Bacchus

Details of the columns of Bacchus temple

Details of the entrance door of Bacchus Temple

With our amazing guide who had lots of stories to tell

A ride on a camel is definitely a tourist attraction

Venus temple is located in the city outside Heliopolis

The pregnant Stone

Before leaving Baalbek back to Beirut we stopped at a Roman quarry outside the ancient city. We wanted to admire one of the largest if not the largest stone ever cut by men. The monolith is 20 meters long and 4 ½ meters high. Locally known as hajar el hibla which translates to the pregnant stone, it is undeniably impressive!