Our two days’ trip to Anjar and Baalbek archaeological sites (both UNESCO World Heritage) was again one of the highlights of my visit to Lebanon in August 2019.
Anjar archeological site
Accompanied by my daughter, my brother and his family we first drove to Anjar. Anjar is a city in the Bekaa Valley with a historic site that is often overlooked. Unlike other sites in Lebanon, where layers of different civilizations lie on top of each other, Anjar only witnessed the 8th century historical period of the first Arab dynasty, the Umayyad Caliphate. Strategically located at the intersection of important trade routes between Syria and Lebanon, the city of Anjar was built around 715 AD and prospered for around half a century.
So much time has passed since then. Yet the ruins of Anjar in their silence will catch you in awe. We were practically the only people exploring the site. The awesome architectural structures all around fascinated us.
The best part of our trip was yet to come, namely the lunch break in a famous traditional Lebanese restaurant in Anjar. First-time tourists in Lebanon never fail to report about the astounding supply of excellent food all around the country.
Palmyra Hotel and some historical facts
Our next destination after an opulent meal at the famous Shams restaurant was the City of Baalbek where we had planned to stay overnight in Palmyra Hotel. Built in 1874 by a Greek entrepreneur to accommodate the growing number of European archaeologists exploring the region at that time, this hotel is considered one of the oldest hotels in the Middle East.
The turbulent local, regional and global events have affected Palmyra’s history in many ways over 145 years, but they couldn’t close its doors for one single day! For history lovers like me, interested in Lebanon’s rich history in the late 19th Century under the Ottomans, and early 20th Century under French Colonial rule, this hotel is certainly gem. The last German Kaiser Wilhelm II stayed at Palmyra in 1898, paving the way for the large excavation of Baalbek ruins.
Evening stroll in the city of Baalbek
After we had checked in and moved into our lovely refurbished rooms on the last floor, we walked to the city in the early evening. I realised then that I had never walked the streets of this bustling city. Although it must have been less busy than during daytime, one could still feel its positive and welcoming spirit.
Nostalgic moments
Writing this now reminds me of a Lebanon tour I organized in 1998 for a group of Germans, long before social media, and exactly one hundred years later! Eight years after the end of the Lebanese Civil War, the hotel was still recovering from that period. We were pleasantly surprised by the well-preserved antique furniture. We didn’t mind water not running properly, nor the lack of air conditioning. We loved the atmosphere and the authenticity of the place.
We also enjoyed the few people working there. I still recall the friendly old man, Abu Ali, who served us a decent Lebanese breakfast every day. I got so emotional as I remembered him from my last stay at Palmyra in the early 80s during the Lebanese Civil War while on a 5 days’ field trip with the School of Architecture.
View from our room on the last floor
Our rooms opened on a terrace that overlooked Baalbek Temple Complex. I took the first two photos below at dawn in 2019. The light was changing from minute to minute, and I couldn’t but take many photos. I wanted to freeze that moment, as if I knew what would later happen in Lebanon. The banks and economic crisis that severely hit the country, the short revolution against the corrupt system, Corona and the Beirut port explosion. After that lovely summer in Lebanon and the many excursions I did around the country, I first came back to Beirut in October 2022.
The last photo below with the Lebanese mountains covered with snow were taken in March 2023. Since 2022 I have resumed my yearly trips to Lebanon, thank God for that!
Lebanese entrepreneurship and resilience
Luckily for us, the hotel new owners, Mr and Mrs Ali Husseini, have firmly preserved the genuineness of the original building over the years. So, in 2019, when entering the hall again, we felt as if stepping into a different era. Also, our rooms overlooking the lit Baalbek temple complex at night added more magic to this unique experience. Our stroll in the city before retiring in our beautifully designed rooms was the extra bonus on this memorable short trip.
Baalbek temple complex
Heliopolis, City of the Sun as named by the Romans is one of the most well-preserved temple complexes in the region. It includes two of the largest and greatest Roman temples ever built outside from Rome: The majestic Jupiter and Bacchus temples. I have visited them many times in my life at different seasons. Whether in hot summers or in early springs when the nearby mountains are still covered with snow, the colossal structures of Baalbek stand tall amid breathtaking landscape defying time and history.
The pregnant stone
Before leaving Baalbek back to Beirut we stopped at a Roman quarry outside the ancient city. We wanted to admire one of the largest if not the largest stone ever cut by men. The monolith is 20 meters long and 4 ½ meters high. Locally known as hajar el hibla which translates to the pregnant stone, it is undeniably impressive!
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